Plovdiv

Food in Plovdiv follows general Bulgarian traditions, with fresh seasonal vegetables, grilled meat, dairy and plenty of salads. Meals are typically shared, starting with a cold salad and often a glass of rakia, the local fruit brandy. The surrounding plain is fertile farmland, so tomatoes, peppers and fruit are a point of pride in summer.

Bakery snacks such as banitsa and other pastries are common for breakfast, usually with yogurt or ayran. Lunch and dinner often feature grilled kebapche and kyufte, slow-cooked stews, and dishes baked in clay pots. The area is also close to wine-producing regions, and Bulgarian wine is easy to find across the city.

Dining is relaxed and unhurried. Outdoor tables fill up in warmer months, and the Kapana area and the main pedestrian street are popular for evening meals and drinks.

Plovdiv has been settled since the Neolithic period, with continuous habitation for several thousand years. In the 4th century BC it was taken by Philip II of Macedon and renamed Philippopolis. Earlier it was a Thracian settlement, often linked with the name Eumolpias or Pulpudeva.

Under Roman rule from the 1st century AD, Philippopolis became an important provincial city on the main road between Europe and Constantinople, with a theatre, a stadium and public buildings. It later passed between Byzantine, Bulgarian and Ottoman control. Under the Ottomans it was known as Filibe and was a significant trading town.

In the 19th century the city became a center of the Bulgarian National Revival, and wealthy merchants built the ornate houses that now define the Old Town. After the Liberation in 1878 it was the capital of Eastern Rumelia, and in 1885 it joined the rest of Bulgaria. Today it is a major cultural, trade and fair city.

Bulgarians are generally warm but reserved at first, and greetings are polite and fairly formal. A notable quirk is the head gesture: shaking the head side to side typically means yes, and nodding means no, though many people adjust this for foreigners. It is good to confirm answers in words.

Tipping in restaurants is customary at a modest level, and rounding up the bill or adding a small percentage is appreciated. When visiting churches and monasteries, dress modestly and be quiet, and check whether photography is allowed inside. When invited into a home, it is polite to bring a small gift and to be ready to be offered food and drink.

Plovdiv has a strong arts and festival culture, with theatre, music and exhibitions throughout the year. Locals take pride in the city's long history and enjoy sharing it, and they spend much of the evening socializing in cafés and public squares.