Florence

Florentine food is rooted in Tuscan country cooking: simple, seasonal and built on good olive oil, beans, bread, grilled meat and vegetables. Traditional Tuscan bread is baked without salt, which shapes many dishes, from soups to bread salads that use up stale loaves.

Meals typically follow the Italian pattern of antipasto, a first course of pasta or soup, then a meat or fish main, though many people happily order just one or two courses. Lunch is often the main meal, and aperitivo in the early evening is a popular way to start a night out. Street food such as tripe and lampredotto sandwiches has a long tradition in the city.

Wine is central to the table, with Chianti and other Tuscan reds the usual companions. Markets sell fresh produce, cured meats, cheese and truffle products, and gelato shops are found on nearly every street.

Florence began as a Roman settlement, Florentia, founded around the 1st century BC on the Arno. After the fall of Rome it was a modest town, but in the medieval period it grew into a wealthy commune driven by the wool trade and banking, and the gold florin became a widely used currency in Europe.

In the 14th and 15th centuries the city became a center of humanist thought and artistic innovation. The Medici family, bankers who dominated politics from the 15th century, patronized artists and architects, and figures such as Brunelleschi, Donatello, Botticelli, Leonardo and Michelangelo worked here. The Medici later became grand dukes of Tuscany and ruled for generations.

Florence briefly served as capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Italy in the 1860s. In the 20th century the city suffered wartime damage and a severe flood of the Arno in 1966, after which an international effort helped restore damaged artworks and books.

Florentines are proud of their artistic heritage and tend to be courteous but reserved with visitors. A simple greeting in Italian when entering shops, cafes and restaurants is appreciated. Dress modestly for churches, with shoulders and knees covered.

Many cafes have different prices for standing at the bar versus sitting at a table, and coffee is usually taken quickly at the counter. Dinner is served later than in many countries, commonly after 7:30 pm. Tipping is modest, and a cover charge may appear on restaurant bills.

The historic center has a limited traffic zone, and driving there is restricted, so visitors should not drive into it. Sitting or eating on church steps and monument bases is discouraged, and popular museums are best booked in advance.