Seville

Seville's food is built around the tapas tradition: small plates shared standing at a bar or at a table, often with a glass of sherry-style wine, beer or vermouth. Olive oil, cured ham, fried fish, seafood and stews feature heavily. Eating hours are late by many countries' standards, with lunch usually after 2 pm and dinner after 9 pm.

Many dishes reflect the region's mix of Moorish and Christian heritage, and the local produce is excellent, from olives to citrus. Bitter oranges from the city's own streets are used for marmalade. Sweets are often made in convents, and pastries flavored with almond, egg yolk and cinnamon are common around religious festivals.

Bars are informal and lively, and it is normal to move between several during an evening, ordering one or two dishes at each.

Seville began as an ancient settlement later known as Hispalis under Roman rule, and nearby Italica was the birthplace of emperors Trajan and Hadrian. After the Visigoths, the city came under Muslim rule from the early 700s and became an important center of al-Andalus, especially under the Almohads in the 1100s, who built a great mosque whose minaret survives as the Giralda.

Seville was conquered by Ferdinand III of Castile in 1248. In the 1500s, after the voyages of Columbus, it gained a royal monopoly on trade with the Americas and became one of Europe's wealthiest cities. The Cathedral, one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in the world, was built on the site of the old mosque during this period of growth.

The river silted up and trade shifted to Cádiz in the 1700s, ending Seville's golden age. The city hosted the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, which left behind landmarks such as Plaza de España and Maria Luisa Park, and the 1992 Expo brought further modernization.

Life in Seville is strongly social and centered on the street. People gather at bars, plazas and terraces, and conversations are animated. Greetings often involve two kisses on the cheek among friends. Punctuality is relaxed socially, and the evening stretches late, especially in warm months.

Religious tradition remains important. During Semana Santa, brotherhoods carry elaborate floats through crowded streets, and visitors should be respectful, avoid cutting through processions and keep noise low near the pasos. Dress modestly when entering churches, and expect that some sights close for services.

Flamenco is a serious art form rooted in Andalusian and Romani culture. If you attend a performance, stay quiet during songs and dance and applaud at appropriate moments. Many businesses close in the afternoon for a break in the heat, so plan errands around that rhythm.